Good Eats: Bacar

The niners beat the bears - in a heart-attack inducing finish - and it was date night.  How could this evening get any more magical?  I'll tell you.  A fresh, thoughtful, earthy meal at Bacar.

I called the restaurant around 3:00pm, when most begin answering their phones for dinner service, and made sure to forewarn of my dietary needs.  They had walu on the menu (a meaty but juicy white fish) and I asked that they save me a cut.  I also made sure to have a few veggies left aside so that they were not parboiled in advance.

Tip: In many kitchens, prep includes blanching or parboiling the vegetables in salted water, leaving few green options.  But if you call ahead, you usually can secure a handful of healthy nibbles for your meal.

Back to the restaurant - it is quite big (two floors) and urban feeling, but cozy due to its warm lighting.and comfy booths.  I was delighted to see that the wine list not only included your standardbottles, half bottles, and glasses, but tastings as well - how decadent.  So yes, I had a tasting of two white wines, an Albarino and a Sauvignon Blanc, making the start of my dining experience all the more entertaining and well, boozy.

Then the main course.  When the waiter arrived at the table and I attempted to launch into my dietribe (that's wordplay, folks), he sweetly interrupted and said, "Yes, no sodium."  Always a comforting start.  He then assured me that the chef would happily accommodate my needs and was there anything in particular that I wanted from the menu.  The fact that I was given options, and was not beholden to just one entrée, was very impressive.  I'll have to take them up on the offer some other time.  But for this particular evening, I stuck with the walu.  It looked delicious and I figured it was a safe bet.

As for the result - well, first of all, the presentation (see picture above) was meticulous.  Clearly, this was not a flavorless piece of fish thrown on a plate.  Roasted brussel sprout leaves and simply

sautéed chantarelle mushrooms cushioned the walu which was delicately cooked with a strong smoky flavor, possibly from the use of liquid smoke or an actual smoker. The whole dish was then topped with a festive tapenade of what I thought was garlic and parsley.  There was a burst of citrus flavor and of course, the always lively taste of fresh herbs. I realized by the third bite, however, that the garlic bits were actually olives and unless they were specially cured without salt, I'm pretty certain this beautiful topping had sodium.

Now, I write this fact (with some hesitancy as I know Bacar went to the ends of the kitchen to create a safe meal for me) to exhibit the importance of going over all the details of your sodium needs with the waiter, even if it seems repetitive and annoying.  Do not be afraid to SPELL IT OUT.  It took me six years to understand where sodium hides, so I surely cannot expect people to remember to look at the back of a bottle or to connect the no-sodium dots, especially while they cook in a busy kitchen.

Now if you're thinking, damn, Bacar failed the no-sodium test, I assure you they did not. The care with which they treated my meal was obvious and there are multiple menu items I can order in the future, which is not often the case.  In addition, when I ordered sorbet for dessert, the waiter rushed back to warn me that there were a few pinches of salt in the sorbet, demonstrating that they clearly understood my needs and that the olive situation was simply a blip.  

And now, just in case you forgot what it looked like...one more look at the walu masterpiece.

Tips & Tricks, Good Eats, and Recipe Box: This Spud's For You

I think potatoes are (a) utterly delicious and (b) really confusing to spell.  I like them fried, baked, sliced, in soups and stews ... but mostly, I like them fried.  At first, I thought it would be impossible to find low-sodium or sodium-free versions of these beloved potato products - and I took to making my own sweet potato fries at home (which, if I say so myself, was not a bad substitute...recipe below).  But I had completely underestimated the possibilities of no-sodium/low-sodium snacking and in almost 6 years of searching for a salt-free French fry or a sodium-free bag of chips, I've compiled the following list of delicious salt-free options, which even have the salt freaks exclaiming snacking nirvana.'

For A Sit-Down French Fry Fix:

Hop into Frjtz - a Belgium fry and mussel palace located in the Mission and Hayes Valley.  Just ask the incredibly accommodating staff (yes, they know me by name) to hold the salt on your LARGE cone of fries.  Don't hesitate to explain your reason for salt shaker resistance - the more they understand your situation, the more serious they will take your request.

As for the sauces - for which they are famous - they are all heavy in sodium content.  So to be absolutely safe, ask for a wedge of lime to give it a zest of flavor.  Or douse the fries in pepper.  I've even recently seen malt vinegar available at the condiments counter - that has a nice kick too.  And if you're really craving something more substantive, I have been known to bring my own bottle of low-sodium mustard in my purse.  Don't be embarrassed.  It's totally cool and the people staring are just jealous. But if you're not up for social defiance, you can eat them sauce free.  These fries are so perfectly crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside that they don't need any cover up.  They are natural beauties.

Added tip:  If you attempt ordering French fries at other restaurants, and I do, just remember to ask if they cut them fresh or if they come from a bag.  If they come from a bag (i.e. frozen) they most likely have sodium.  Also, make sure the potatoes are not blanched in salt water before being cooked.

For Out-Of-The-Bag Snacking:

My first experience with no-salt/low-sodium snacking was with Kettle Chips unsalted, proud spuds.

In 2007, during a crisp fall afternoon and a mostly unproductive work day, I spent an hour and half crafting a heartfelt letter to the Kettle Chips crew thanking them for their bravery and leadership in the production of a salt-free chip, which had filled a large void in my junk-food junkie soul...and would they be so kind as to create another innovative salt-free chip product to dazzle my taste buds (balsamic vinegar and rosemary anyone?).  The next day, I received a kind response, but no mention of any future salt-free lines and no shipment of a life-time supply of unsalted chips to my door.

While I continue to wait for my free box of Kettle Chips (wink wink), these other brands are also jumping on the salt-free train and making my no-sodium snacking dreams come true.

Utz has unsalted potato chips and no salt BBQ 

Terra Chips has unsalted potato chips, unsalted Hickory BBQ (so delicious!), and unsalted Sweet Potato chips for a totally wild taste experience.

Added tip: When I make my own tuna tartar - yeah, you've got some drool on the side of your lip - I line the plate with salt-free potato chips and use them to transport the dreamy, diced fish from the plate to my mouth. East meets west in a dazzling salt-free appetizer.

For A DIY, At-Home Adventure:

When Super Bowl Season rolls around, grab a few sweet potatoes and follow these instructions:


1.  Turn on oven, preferably to 400 degrees.

2.  Wash and scrub your spuds, but no need to peel.  I think the skin, when crisp, makes them extra delicious.

3.  Cut the sweet potato into fourths and then into thin strips - you want each fry to be about half and inch wide at the most (check out the picture here to get a good idea of size and length).  The thinner they are the crispier they will get.

4.  Put all of your potato sticks on a pre-greased or pre-sprayed baking sheet - you want most of them to be touching the bottom of the sheet so they all cook evenly - and sprinkle olive oil (about 2 tablespoons) and a mixture of the following spices:

For spicy - cumin, paprika, white pepper, and cayenne
For herby - rosemary (fresh or dried), white pepper, ground mustard, a pinch of cayenne
For special - use a flavored olive oil (like orange, avocado, or truffle!)

5.  Toss the potato sticks so they are evenly coated with the oil and spices.

6.  Bake for 20-30 minutes.  Watch the first batch carefully and from then on, you'll know how long it takes.

7.  Repeat until all the potatoes have been cooked and gobbled up - make sure you set a good handful (or ten) aside for yourself.

Good Eats: mmm mmm Murray Circle

I have to admit, it felt pretty silly to travel less than 15 minutes for a one-night staycation at Cavallo Point - but the experience went beyond any expectations I had. First of all, the property (set in old Fort Baker buildings) does an extraordinary job of fitting in with its natural surroundings - gorgeous fields of long, sweeping grass; seats strewn about the property to sit and admire a sunrise or sunset; fire pits for late night chatting with fellow guests; and simple architectural designs so as not to distract from the natural beauty of the surrounding hills, wildflowers, and Golden Gate.

But on to the good stuff...Murray Circle is the restaurant at Cavallo Point, open to guests as well as the public. I've read about it in SFgate, 7X7 and Tablehopper and have been waiting to make a trek over the bridge to check it out. I wrote to Murray Circle about two weeks prior to our reservation with a complete lists of dietary cannots and more importantly, cans. When we arrived, the hostess confirmed that the chef had received the list and our waitress also promptly displayed an actual printout of the email I had sent. To say the least, I was impressed.

As for the menu: Diners can choose to either order separate plates from the menu (separated into three categories: vegetables & fruits; fish & shellfish; and meat & poultry) or order a chef's tasting (at an incredibly reasonable $65). My man friend and I asked if it would be possible for both of us to order a chef's tasting - his being the normal fixed-menu items and mine a slightly altered version. This is where things get really good - not only did the chef say he could make a custom tasting menu for me, but that I could pick ANYTHING from the entire menu. The world was my oyster, and yes, I could have some of those too. This amount of dining freedom never happens. My choices are usually few and to have everything on the menu at my fingertips was just something that I had not experienced in the past five years. All three courses were beautiful, delicious, and sodium-girl safe. For a fairly new, one-star Michelin restaurant - Murray Circle lives up to all the accolades. Prices are pretty San Francisco affordable (avg $20 per plate), the service was friendly, and the overall feeling was casual and warm. Also of note, our sommelier, Sabrina, (yes, there are three and a huge wine list of ranging prices) was a gem. After chatting with her about her own history in the Bay Area and her favorite wines, we were treated to a glass of a no-longer-in-production Ladera Vineyard Merlot. I have never tasted a red like this before and meeting someone like Sabrina makes dining out an unforgettable experience. Being friendly and inquisitive always leads to good things...like a memorable meal, an unforgettable glass of wine, and maybe a new friend too.

So get on your bike or in your car and make your way over to Cavallo Point and Murray Circle for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or just some wine on the porch. And for those of you with restrictions, let your mouth drool and heart melt over this menu:

And for those of you with restrictions, let your mouth drool and heart melt over this menu:

Course 1: Young lettuces salad with winter fruits, thinly sliced vegetables (beautiful rose colored turnips) and a home-made champagne vinaigrette - I tasted citrus and star anise as well as freshly chopped herbs. It was crisp and light with a perfectly silky dressing. Clean plate number one.

Course 2: Wild halibut with purple cauliflower, peas, and carrot shavings. The fish was cooked perfectly: melt-in-your mouth creamy texture and the plate was very colorful. No outrageous burst of flavor here, but it was simple and well prepared. Clean plate number two.

Course 3: The true knock-out. Side-by-side cuts of slow roasted duck breast with crispy, golden skin. Flanked by more of the purple cauliflower, pea, and carrot combo and in the middle, a surprise treat of caramelized turnips. Vegetables prepared right = candy. The molasses flavor of the turnips brought out the natural sweetness of the duck. It was hard to share this dish...but I had to let my companion experience the ingenuity - just a little bit of creativity goes a long way in sodium-free cooking. Clean plate number three.

Course 4: No room for dessert, but had an endless pot of french press coffee and too much wine (half a bottle of Crocker and Starr). Will have to come back for a smaller tasting and some sweet treats.

Breakfast: Yes, Murray Circle does it all. I ordered the farm fresh egg omelet with mushrooms and spinach. Reading this on paper doesn't exactly sound exciting. But when I received the fluffy, sunshine yellow omelet and split it open, to my surprise I found some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms. My breakfast was another example of how good ingredients need very little to be full of flavor. The farm fresh eggs had their own nutty essence, the chanterelles were meaty, and even the spinach had an herbal bitterness for balance. A little olive oil and pepper...and BAM, a delicious breakfast.  Thank you to Murray Circle for such incredible service and the willingness to make so many sodium-free delicious meals. 

And a quick update: I have dined here now three times, every experience being equally impressive - the food has proved more flavorful and inventive with each visit.  During my last trip, my dining partner and I ordered the same dish, which was accompanied by an uni (sea urchin) reduction sauce.  Of course, I thought my sodium-free version would be uni-less.  But SURPRISE!  Not only did my plate look equally gorgeous as the regular version sitting across the table, but I was served my very own, sodium-free, freshly prepared uni reduction.  That is incredible service and proof that extraordinary food can be sodium-free.

Good Eats: Contigo, mi amigo!

Contigo ("with you") may be one of my favorite Spanish phrases, and after visiting its Noe Valley location, it may be one of my top San Francisco go-to's as well. The official name, Conitgo Kitchen + Cava, sums up the whole experience of dining in this adorable, bright, and homey eatery. It may be a bit pricey, but its fresh ingredients and incredibly attentive and understanding staff makes this restaurant a must for people with dietary needs.

Even though we intended to stop in for a glass of wine (and they have a gorgeous list of reds, whites, rose, and cava) we couldn't help but stay for a few small tapas. A beautiful wood counter top, with a sushi-bar view of the entire kitchen, greets you as you enter. If a restaurant has seating near an open kitchen, I want to be as close as possible. There is nothing like watching culinary genius in action.

The only thing separating customer from chef are bowls of sliced stalks of asparagus, prepped jamon and queso sandwiches (called a "bikini"), bundles of green garlic, and other fresh-from the garden goodies. And speaking of garden, the restaurant boasts a feeling of green - both in color and practice - and they have their very own vegetables growing in the back. The display of fresh ingredients is the best sign that a restaurant will be able to accommodate dietary requests and I felt incredibly confident that I would find something on the menu to satisfy my appetite. Other counter-view delights included: a wood-fire stove and an incredibly large, red meat slicer - cured meat slicing action! Can't eat it, but fun to look at.

While ordering, two waiters and the hostess come over to discuss my dietary restrictions and they all assured me that they could accommodate health needs and flavor desires.

Several menu items were easily transformed into sodium-free options:

the little gem salad
asparagus with sieved egg
beets with clementines
snap peas and garlic chips
chard and beet greens
Steelhead with leeks

I know this is going to be a restaurant that I can cultivate for the long term and am excited to return and try more of the delicious tapas. Contigo promises loads of Spanish flavor and no-sodium goodness.

Picture care of: In Praise of Sardines

Good Eats: San Fran Favorites

So this blog will be divided into three main sections that cover: finding salt-less goodies, making salt-less goodies, and eating at restaurants that provide salt-less goodies.

Posts titled "Good Eats" will be reviews (raves mostly) of those dining establishments that have gone out of their way to produce safe and delicious, sodium-free meals for me. Much to my surprise, eating out has not been as much of a hassle/challenge as I had expected it to be. There are definitely some steps to take that make it much easier (see the next Tips & Tricks post) but I do want to give one big shout-out to all those chefs and waiters who have enabled me to enjoy the many delicious eats in this town - SAN FRANCISCO, I love you.

So here are some of my absolute favorite spots that have been consistent and generous with their cooking skills:

Maverick: Without a doubt, this is my number one - great ambiance, amazing wait staff, inventive dishes, well priced, and an extraordinary wine list. I have dined here about 7 or 8 times and every time, I am served something flavorful and satisfying. The first time I went, they made me seared duck and special, salt-free gnocchi. Hand rolled potato dumplings are definitely the way to my heart - and a sizzling piece of duck fat on the side doesn't hurt either. The attention to detail and casual atmosphere make this an ideal spot for any occasion. Plus, their wait staff is small and friendly and you really feel like you are eating amongst friends.

Delfina: Not really breaking news here, but Delfina consistently serves up hot, steamy plates of pure deliciousness. And without fail, they have accommodated my dietary needs. I do have to admit, I always end up having the steak here (it is the only item on the menu that I can eat), but every time I have it, the chefs at Delfina have some new trick up their sleeves/aprons to make it special (red wine reduction, slivers of garlic, thickened pan juices, savory olive oil, or scoopings of BONE MARROW!) I have often thought about what my last meal on earth would be - and Delfina's superb execution of a good steak definitely puts this fine piece of meat in my top five.

Spork: When I can just walk into a restaurant - no pre-planning, no day-before phone calls - and get served a sodium-free, flavor-full dinner, I am impressed and forever grateful. Spork is just that place. I have been there 4 times now - and three of these experiences were extraordinary. There was one miss (time number three) when the meal was most definitely drenched in salt - but I have to admit, I was with a big party, had not called ahead, and had a rather new server. So luckily, I decided to try out this spot one more time, and I was once again overwhelmed and delighted by the great service and great food. I generally order the fish, and like Delfina, the chefs at Spork have continuously shown their creativity with new sauces (like fennel sautéed in lemon and garlic) and sides (olive oil roasted cauliflower) that make a plain piece of fish pop.

Sauce: The name of this restaurant kept me from exploring its premises for at least a year. After glancing it its menu though, I realized that it was a dining possibility. When I called the afternoon before my reservation, I was immediately transferred to speak directly with the chef (who also came by the table as soon as I arrived). I had had my eye on the spectacular sounding mushroom fries but didn't think it was a possibility. When I asked coyly if this fried delight could be re-imagined for me - the chef whispered those magic words ("of course") and whipped up my very own basket of mushroom fries with a home-made, spicy mayo sauce on the side. It was a busy night, a big group of girls, and the staff at Sauce still went above and beyond the call of duty. Mushroom fries...I'll be back.